The term Jacquard Weaving may be applied to all harnessweaving that is above the range of harness shafts, so that a jacquardmachine is simply a shedding motion whereby a largevariety of sheds may be formed. The greater the number of liftinghooks contained in a machine, the greater will be the range ofpatterns that may be woven. Jacquard machines range from 100to 2600 hooks.

Since its introduction the jacquard machine has undergonemany changes in regard to the methods of operating the differentparts of the machine, but the principles remain the same.

Jacquard machines may be classed under four heads, as follows:First, Single Action Machines, meaning single cylindermachines; second, Double-Lift Single Cylinder Machines; third,Double Action Machines, meaning double-lift and two cylinders;and fourth, Rise and Fall Machines, which have a close-shed motion.There are also special machines.

When speaking of a jacquard, all the parts comprising themachine and the harnesses are included. These may be classifiedas follows:

(a) A number of wire hooks placed vertically in the frameof the machine.

(b) A number of wire needles placed horizontally betweenthe wire hooks.

(c) A number of springs at one end of the needles.

(d) Tail cords or neck bands attached to the bottom of thewire hooks.

(e) Harness threads which are attached to a coupling thatpasses through the comber board.

(f) The coupling, which is usually composed of three orfour parts as follows:

A lingo, usually made of various weights of wire and whichis at the extreme end of the coupling; a double thread, commonly[Pg 2]termed a hanger, which attaches the lingo to a mail eye; and themail eye, through which the warp yarn is passed. When thereare four parts, a double thread termed the mid-piece or sleeper isattached to the top of the eyelet and is then fixed to the harnessthreads mentioned at e.

(g) The cylinder and its working parts.

(h) The griffe levers.

(i) The griffe.

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